Exposition industrielle : pavillon Brocard

Une photo du pavillon Brocard lors de l'exposition industrielle au pôle Khodynskoe à Moscou en 1882.

Old russian lace with the heraldic symbols of the Tzar

© Family Brocard.
Usage of the image under authorization only

Can you recognize the two eagles from the Tzar and the heraldic symbols with the crows, realized on this lace from the old time ? It was used in an Orthodoxe church in Russia, around the furnace bridge.

technorati tags: Lace, eagle, russia, brocard

Brocard : Eau de Cologne Impériale (in 1897)

A nice exemple of advertizing from the old time, about the nice "Eau de Cologne Impériale" from Brocard. I don't know how the bottle was created ? Is it a thermoform bottle with a complex design, or the label with a nice image of that period. I like it. Even if the humidity has impacted the paper with large brown areas.

Whan I am thinking about the millions of bottles prepared for Brocard each year. Imagine there were more than 10 millions of bottles in 1914, it is strange to have few on the market today.

What was the formula of this nice fragrance ?
A nice memory without more details ?







© Family Brocard.
Usage of the image under authorization only

Un tissu en soie d'apparat brodé de fils d'argent

© Family Brocard.
Usage of the image under authorization only

Sur cette étoffe en soie, se dessinent différents motifs brodés de fils d'or et d'argent. Dans la partie centrale, ce sont comme des petits cailloux juxtaposés habilement, donnant comme un effet de galuchat, un peu art déco.
Sur les deux côtés, des entrelacs floraux, de paillons et de guirlandes, impriment un mouvement plus classique.
Quel était l'usage de ce tissu d'apparat ? Ornait-il le "plastron" d'une homme ou d'une femme ? A quelles occasions était-il revêtu en Russie ? Le mystère reste. Les références documentaires manquent. A moins que vous ayez des idées ?

technorati tags: soie, broderies or broderie argent

Complex horses embroideries from Russian Empire time

© Family Brocard.
Usage of the image under authorization only

This is a nice embroiderie symbolizing two horses on a pillow. The work is very fine and coming also from the Russian period before the revolution. I am interested to know if this kind of design is related to a specific region in Russia.

The realization of this embroiderie on cotton can be from the late XVIIIe century to the XIXe or earlier, but I have no enough documentation to check it.

Unique bottle for first days of a perfume ?

This is still a question for me. About 20 years ago, I was collecting this bottle with a nice design, probably "art nouveau" for the paintings of the birds but not for the rest of the body which is much more classical. The cristal itself is very fine but the use of the bottle was first for me a mystery.

After some searches today, it seems to be connected to the perfume industry. Maybe from the Roure or Brocard perfume industry linked to the family. The usage of this bootle was probably to store some perfume extract after their creation, to be presented to the customers. Somewhere a precious and jewel box for the first days of a perfume...

A potential hypothesis for me... If you have some confirmations it would be interesting ?
Thanks for your feed-back.

Old Brocard perfume alambic

What a strange alambic outside the house. It looks like a primitive one with all the different parts to freezen the liquid and split the different substances. I like the composition of the picture. Old wooden house, nice barrels...

The alambic looks curious as the first part of it, on the left looks so small. This normally the space where you are inserting the core of the plants to be distilled. So I can imaine that the large part of it can be inside the house, at a lower floor.

Another strange thing, are the different small pipes inserted at the middle of the "col de cygne". I know that closed to the plant of Brocard, some areas were dedicated to the culture of Reseda. Was this alambic distilling this famous plant ? A question which will not be probably

In 1889, the firm Brocard had 25 years old

From this period, different books were dealing about the 25 birthday of the Brocard company. I remeber some official pictures which are completely different with the following, coming from the private archive.

There are in fact reflecting the good spirit visible within the firm and the social concerns of the owners Henri & Charlotte Brocard.


I have some difficulties to recognize people on the pictures. Probably some managers & workers of the plant having a lunch within the site, after an Orthodoxe mass already presented on the blog.

On this picture we can see a woman dancing and probably singing. We can imagine the old Russian song of that time, with adapted words about the story of Brocard to emphasize the nice history of this perfume industry with probably some humor.

The last picture was remembering me a large dinner with 450 people invited and where I was preparing the menu. By similarity I can imagine the guy as the cooker of this large lunch. He looks a little bit shy as all people in the backside but whose the role is key for the success of such an event like this one.

Brocard perfume advertizing : end of the XIXe century

A nice large advertizing (A4 format) from the Brocard perfume industry, with nice vivid colors even if this one is old, about the end XIXe century.
I am not able to understand the meaning of the text. We can be surprised to see the young men on the right drinking something on a poster related to the perfume.

As it is probably not vodka, the meaning is somewhere else. Probably in

technorati tags: Brocard, advertizing, perfume, Брокар

Ferrand & Brocard appartement souvenirs in Moscow

Different fragments of a nice decoration from an appartement in Moscow before the Russian Revolution. A discovery evocated in the blog "Sur les pas d'une collection".

Couvre-chef pour l'épouse lors des mariages à Nijni Novgorod, XVIIIe century

© Family Brocard.
Usage of the image under authorization only

It was a magnificent hat, for a woman in Russia closed to the region of Nijni Novgorod. A mix of a complex design in gold and silver. We can perceived on it the image of the symbolized eagles. This object was collected before 1900 in the country.

The date of it seems to be closed to the end of the XVIIIe century.

We can imagine it was coming from the Brocard collection which is now partially in the Tretiakov gallery in Moscow.

© Family Brocard.
Usage of the image under authorization only

Creativity in art deco period in Russia

© Family Brocard.
Usage of the image under authorization only

Well this is a long day. And I have not been updating the blog for a long time. So I am seizing the opportunity to share more news during this week-end.

This interesting post about a Russian art deco design can have some interest, representing again the old symbols of the Russian Empire with a very inventive approach.

technorati tags: Brocard, design, art deco

Art Nouveau design and extravagant Russian invitation

This nice paper can be an invitation at the beginning of the century, in 1902, or the memory of an event concerning this wife and men ? Unfortunately I am not able to read it. In any case, the design is incredible with all those magnificent form of the "art nouveau" period.

The quality of the paper is also perfect which is great for such a souvenir of this time, after the revolution.
Somewhere, this is fantastic to imagine the common trend of the "art nouveau" style in whole Europe including Russia with some extravagances given by the tradition and the culture there.

We can observe there a real complexity of flowers, mix of colors, creativity in the way to present two old photographies.
The tree or something which is resembling, seems connected to a dream like a vivid vegetable.

If you are able to give us more information about, especially our Russian readers, do not hesitate. ;-)

The Brocard's windmill in Moscow about 1890

© Family Brocard & Roure

The Brocard family in Mosow about 1890, with at the center Henri and Charlotte Brocard, founders of the Brocard industry and great inventor of Perfume in the Russian Empire.
We can also recognize Eugénie Brocard and Georges Félix Ferrand, who were also working into the company. Eugénie tried after the Russian revolution to relaunch the Brocard perfume industry in France at Saint Brice la Forêt, but a terrible fire destroyed their dreams.

Their daughter Henriette Ferrand is also visible closed to her father. Henriette will be married to Jean Roure in France, who will inherit a part of the Roure perfume industry in essential oils and absoluts.

Others members of the Family are gathered on the picture as Auguste Ferrand and his wife, the related Giraud family, and other Brocard's children as Alexandre and Emile who will work in the perfume industry. Alexandre, especially will continue to ensure the direction of the company after the Russian revolution until 1920 or 1922.
Three wet-nurse are also on the photography with the younger members of the family. You can recognize them with something which is looking like a diadem on their hairs.

This windmill, probably only decorative was at the end of the Brocard property in Moscow, closed to the plant.

Old soap advertizing from Brocard perfume industry

Two old advertizing from Brocard about probably the "national soap".
Henry Brocard contributed introduced an hygienic revolution in Russia with one soap for one kopeck. Before that period, soap and beauty stuff were too expensive for the whole population in the empire.

Brocard sold millions of soap in the old Russia, developping the history of the "national soap".
This first successfull experience encouraged Henry Brocard to diversify the soap's offer with more sophisticated formulas including glycerine, Mai fleuri, concombre, amber...

A great Russian embriodery from the Brocard collection

© Family Brocard.
Usage of the image under authorization

I would like to share with you this nice embroidery, collected by the Brocard family probably around 1870 in Russia. The Brocard's marketing was really impacting the culture of embroidery making in Russia by inserying in each packaging new enthousiatic design patterns.

All families were trying to produce those designs into the private producting durably influencing the creativity in this kind a hand made art in the whole old Russian Empire.

This exemple is really characteristic with a great mix of white cotton and colored silk and symbolic myths around birds, othodox church, and men trying to convert other to the religion.
This nice and rare work was probably sed into a church. Although its age, this piece of embroidery is really in great condition, emphazing the large perimeter of what Henri Brocard was collecting at this time, from the flemish primitive paintings to the old russian traditionnal objects and memories.

Un tablier en coton russe du 19e siècle flirte avec l'art

© Family Brocard.
Usage of the image under authorization

L'art populaire russe est sans limite. Ces figures et broderies, figurent sur le bas d'un tablier en coton. J'imagine la femme qui devait porter une telle oeuvre lors de ses travaux ou de son service. Le carrosse est symbolisé, le cheval suggéré. On pourrait y voir une création gauloise sur une monnaie d'un autre temps. Le mouvement pourrait préfigurer un bestiaire à la Matisse. L'oeuvre date probablement du XIXe siècle. Elle est juste disposée dans la partie la plus fragile du vêtement, qui devait s'accrocher aux meubles lors des activités. Cela constitue une forme de raffinement dans la simplicité en lien avec le folklore des traditions russes. En un mot magnifique.

technorati tags: Tablier coton russe folklore

Gold embroidery from the old Russia

I was publishing this post on my other blog "Sur les pas d'une collection". It can have some interest for you as the nice embroidery is coming from the old Russia dating probably from the XVIIe century.

Broderies russes à haut relief, fin XVIIe siècle.
© Collection privée BROCARD II.

Bien avant mon enthousiasme pour les tableaux, je collectionnais quelques étoffes anciennes. Des origines familiales du côté de l'ancienne Russie, m'invitèrent vers ces carrés de soie précieux brodés de fils d'or ou d'argent, au coeur de l'Empire des Tsars.

De la fin du XVIe siècle au XIXe, ils témoignent d'un raffinement et d'une maîtrise du tissage dans ces pays de l'Est, remontant à une haute antiquité.

"La broderie d'or russe est caractérisée par la perfection de sa composition : toutes les représentations s'équilibrent réciproquement dans le plan et restent bien proportionnées, leurs contours sont soumis à un certain rythme intérieur et même l'espace non recouvert par la broderie garde le caractère d'un dessin ornemental. La composition reflétée dans un miroir avec une construction symétrique du dessin par rapport à un axe central vertical est caractéristique de la broderie d'or de la fin du XVIème et du début du XVIIème siècle. Le "peintre en chef" de ces temps ne se pose pas de problèmes de peinture, mais en revanche il est passionné par la recherche du rythme et la distribution des messes dans le plan. La particularité des couleurs de cette broderie constitue un mélange contrastant de l'or et de l'argent sur un fond foncé (de préférence noir ou rouge), ce qui donne à la broderie un aspect solennel."

"Pour la broderie ornementale de la deuxième moitié du XVIIème siècle, les dessins somptueux sont caractéristiques. De cette époque date une composition comportant, au centre, un motif fondamental doté symétriquement, des deux côtés, d'éléments complémentaires. Le plus souvent, il s'agit d'une grande fleur stylisée, richement élaborée, de laquelle partent des rameaux sinueux garnis de feuilles ou de fruits. De telles compositions rappellent, par leurs proportions et leur caractère, l'ornement des vignettes des incunables de l'ancien Moscou". * cf. sources en bas de page.

Dans ces étoffes se conjuguent des éléments totalement opposés, comme la douceur de la soie et la dureté du métal, qui est presque effacée dans un fil précieux.

Broderies russes à haut relief, fin XVIIe siècle.
© Collection privée BROCARD II.

Les velours brodés de fils d'or ci-dessus composaient les éléments de parures de mariage pour l'épouse dans l'esprit des scapulaires. Ils furent réutilisés ici dans la confection du pourtour d'un large coussin unique et rare. Celui-ci aurait pu orner le canapé d'un salon de l'ancienne famille Brocard à Moscou, ou un siège de leur musée.

De nombreux symboles chrétiens y figurent, comme un calice, un épi de blé, des grappes de raisin, le tout avec grâce et foisonnement. Le tissage de l'or aurait pu être identique d'un élément à l'autre. La créativité du tisserant s'exprime dans le moindre motif, avec ici quelques zig-zag savamment disposés, ou des lignes parallèles. Tout cela ajoute un effet de mouvement et de bruissement, comme si la vie reprenait sur ce velours, accentuée par le chatoiement du métal.

Dorure, velours rouge... Ces codes couleurs nous rapprochent de Noël et m'invite à vous souhaiter de bonnes fêtes de fin d'année. J'aimerais aussi vous remercier pour vos visites sur ce petit espace de partage et d'échange sur les pas d'une collection. RDV en 2009 ou peut-être un peu avant.

(*) Source : "La broderie et la dentelle russes", L. Yefimova et R. Belogorskaïa, Office du Livre, Editions Vilo, Paris, 1982 pour la version russe, 1986 pour la version française. Et ce site bien documenté.

Intimist view of the red place in Moscow closed to 1890

© Family Brocard.
Usage of the image under authorization only

Another picture of the "place rouge" in Moscow closed to 1890. The black or blue balloon can help to define the period. Probably it was a special day at this time. Or a special birthday or another celebration... It will need more investigations.

By the way, I really like the spirit of the old Russia which is perceptible on this place. The clothes of the people. The face of the old man at the first plan, the violonist... The women probably singing the old song evoked by the musicians.

This place is still today very large with an impressive perspective, but through this picture, we have a closed view, as being in a small community or village in the center of Moscow, at this time.

Mise en boite de l'itinéraire d'un parfumeur

Perfume box, Brocard company

Cette boite rassemble quelques échantillons des produits de la firme de parfum Brocard dans une sorte d'écrin duveteux. Elle constitue en quelque sorte un bel exemple des talents marketing de ce géant des cosmétiques de l'Empire russe.

Vous retrouvez suggéré sur le coffret, l'univers des mythes et croyances de la Russie traditionnelle, dans un graphisme assez proche des créations de l'artiste Bilibin.
Ce témoignage graphique des traditions russes représente beaucoup pour la firme Brocard.
Rien n'était gagné en 1864 pour Henri Brocard, jeune fabriquant de savon et parfumeur à Moscou. Il lui fallait comprendre les vérités profondes du peuple russe, la trame de fond qui sous-tend l'ensemble de la société. Sa femme Charlotte l'envoya décoder cela aux thermes, dans les rues, sur les marchés. Il lui fallait s'imprégner, humer les rythmes de ce qui gouverne la vie quotidienne du peuple.

L'artisanat de toute sorte le captiva. Broderies, étoffes, sculptures et gravures sur bois illustraient à merveille les artefacts d'une société en bouillonnement et la ré-invention d'une sorte de tradition.
Les motifs de broderies accompagnèrent les emballages de savon. Des dessins et designs audacieux entre mythes forestiers et art nouveau figurèrent sur les coffrets et multiples boites.

Une autre dimension intéressante abonde dans cette boite, à travers les multiples produits proposés. Du savon, à la poudre de riz, aux crèmes et plus subtils parfums, il serait possible de façon presque chronologique de retracer toute l'histoire et le succès croissant de la société Brocard & Co, jusqu'à la révolution russe en 1917.

Happy new year with a nice Russian Art deco picture

A nice invitation from the old Russia looks like a print version of the Art Deco period. But regarding the year 1903, we need probably to connect it more to the Art Nouveau time.
I like the design of it, the marvelous architecture of the house behind, as the police used with a nice mix of grey, silver, green and brown.
Even if I am not re-opening the blog now, I would like to seize the opportunity to wish you an happy new year, inviting you to have a look on my another blog about some collections and especially in the last posts about some "aquarelle" from the conquest of Algeria in 1830.

L'art des datchas revit dans une étoffe brodée

I would like to thank all our visitors and especially our friends from Russia who took the time to read those news about the Brocard family and share their knowledge with us by mail. The blog will be closed for a period of time, but we will come back in the future. :-)

Cette dernière étoffes me permettra de fermer le rideau du Blog provisoirement, comme ce fut le cas également du blog "Sur les pas d'une collection".

J'admire comme sur cette photo ce travail de broderies sur coton. Les griffons, les coqs, les aigles symbolisés reprennent une parte du bestiaire russe. L'homme est également visible comme par une guirlande de femmes vêtues de masques et de curieuses plumes de chaque côtés du visage.

S'agissait-il d'une nappe, d'un napperon figurant un meuble ? A n'en pas douter, il rejoint à nouveau l'art populaire russe et celui des figures propres à l'artisanat des datchas. Cela ne reste qu'un morceau de coton mais avec lui revit une partie de l'ambiance et du style de vie à la fin du XIXe siècle.

technorati tags: Etoffe Coton russe artisanat datcha

Old Russian embroidery mixing silk and cotton

This embroidery is a mix of cotton and silk designing in blue and red, a nice clothe for a small girl. We can estimate that it was produced at the end of the XIXe century or at the early XXe.

The region of origin is very difficult to specify without a specific expertize on the subject.
But I am expecting some reactions and potential advice from the nice Blog of Eugene Baryshnikov, who is maintainer of LJ-community "Ethnography of Belarus".

I will try to share information each month on the Brocard's blog. See you soon.

Discovery of the old perfume "Royal Flush" from Brocard

My last update of the blog was months ago. But I did not forget you. In the meantime I have been maitaining my main blog about "Sur les pas d'une collection". There I decided to baptize my modest collection of Aboriginal art painting. I was not an easy choice, but finaly, remembering the great art's collection of Henry Brocard in Moscow, I decided to give the name of "collection privée BROCARD II". A symbol, a memory of the past, and also a strong link with my own private history.

Perfume Royal Flush from BROCARD
About 1920, Paris
© Family Brocard.
Usage of the image under authorization

Clearly I will never compete with Henry Brocard in terms of collection. I have not the same resources. But that's really for me an invitation to develop a collection stressing one of the oldest nomad population on the planet, as the Aboriginal people of Australia.

Today, I would like to present to you, a small wonderful perfume bottle from the end of the Brocard perfume industry : "Royal Flush" prepared in Paris around 1920.
One of the best experience when you are discovering an old bottle of perfume, is to smell around the neck of it. And when you are able to open the bottle and to discover the real fragrance as this one, you are experimenting a great great moment in your life. Which is compensating the frustration I had months ago in front of this larger bottle of Royal Flush presented on the blog there.

I did not find this perfume recipe in potential archive. What a pity as I am not a nose, able to identify the complexity of the ingredients inside. But beleive me I am dreaming about... this perfume for women coming from the past.